Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Cleaning
Clean cages and equipment help prevent diseases in rabbits. Sanitize the equipment every month or whenever your rabbit has had a disease. Use a chlorine bleach solution to sanitize.
Put 1 cup of bleach in 1 gallon of water. After you have removed the fur and manure from the cage with a wire brush, put some of the chlorine bleach in a spray bottle and spray the entire cage. Let it dry before you return the rabbits to the cage. If the cage has a wooden floor, it needs to be cleaned every day and sanitaized every week. Other disinfectants can be used, but make sure they will not irritate the rabbits.
Cleaning Tips
You can clean the feeding and watering equipment daily with a milder bleach solution (1/4 cup bleach to 1 gallon water). Clean the hutches and cages at least once a week with a stronger bleach solution (1 cup bleach to 1 gallon water).
Let your equipment dry in the sun. Direct sunlight is also a disinfectant.
Use a vacuum or a stiff bristle brush to remove loose fur on cages and other equipment before it becomes a problem.
Disease can also come from using old cages or nest boxes discarded by other breeders or former rabbit enthusiasts. Do not use equipment from these sources until they are disinfected with bleach and direct sunlight.
Source: 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System BU-6069 What's Hoppening?
External Parasites of Rabbits
Ear Canker or Ear Mange
Ear canker is caused by common ear mites (psoroptes cuniculi). The mites live in the ear canal and damage the skin. A brown, waxy material covers the inner ear. This encrustation is dried blood, cellular debris, keratin and mites in various stages of development.
An effective treatment is to remove the encrustation with a cotton swab soaked in mineral or vegetable oil. Allow some of the oil to run into the ear passage. Repeat this procedure in four days. A 0.25 percent suspension of Lindane in mineral oil is an affective medication. Ivermectin has proven to be very effective at controlling ear canker. Inject 0.20 cc if Ivermectin just beneath the skin at the nape of the neck. Remember all your rabbits need to be treated if you find an infected animal. Sanitation is important for control.
Mange
Mites cause the skin to become dry, scaly, irritated and itchy with hair loss in the affected areas. Treat with a powder containing 0.25 percent Lindane. The best control method is good sanitation.
Fleas
Rabbit, dog and cat fleas occasionally have been reported on rabbits. There are four stages in the life cycle of a flea - egg, larva, pupa and adult. The eggs are deposited in nesting material and cracks of the nest boxes. The eggs hatch into larvae that form the pupae from which the adult emerges. Treat the rabbits by dusting with a commercial preparation of Pyrethrum or Rotenone. Properly destroy nesting materials and wash the nest boxes using bleach (1 cup bleach to 1 gallon water). Keep cats and dogs away from all rabbit supplies, especially nesting materials.
Source: 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System BU-6069 What's Hoppening?
Monday, December 5, 2011
Rabbit Management Tips
Parts of a Rabbit
Friday, December 2, 2011
Get a Hold on It
It is essential to know how to pick up and carry a rabbit. Rabbits can scratch or bite when they do not feel protected.
Use a stuffed rabbit to practice picking up a rabbit. When you are ready, show your parent how you do this with a live rabbit.
Removing from a Cage
- Put the palm of your right hand under the middle of the belly and lift.
- Take the rabbit out of the cage with the rear first and the head last.
- When the rabbit is out of the cage, put your left hand around the rear legs.
Picking up a Rabbit
- With the rabbit facing you, place your right hand under its chest and stomach.
- Balance the rabbit on your right hand and lift it up a little.
- Place your left hand under the rear of the rabbit until the rump is resting on your hand.
- Move the rabbit forward until its head is securely tucked under your left arm.
- Remove your right hand or gently lay your right hand on the back of the rabbit for added safety while moving.
NEVER lift or carry a rabbit by its ears or legs; you could injure it.
Source: 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System – BU-6069 What’s Hoppening?
Rabbit Breeds and Ideal Weight Groups
The 4-H Show in Delhi, Louisiana is for 4-Class ONLY (Jr. Buck/Doe and Sr. Buck/Doe)
4-Class Rabbit Breeds | |
Small (2 to 6 lbs.) | Medium (over 6 to 9 lbs.) |
American Fuzzy Lop Britannia Petite Dutch Dwarf Hotot Florida White Havana Himalayan Holland Lop Jersey Wooly Mini Lop Mini Rex Netherland Dwarf Polish Silver Tan | American Sable Belgian Hare English Angora English Spot French Angora Harlequin Lilac Rex Rhinelander Satin Angora Silver Marten Standard Chinchilla |
6-Class Rabbit Breeds | |
Large (over 9 to 11 lbs.) | Giant (over 11 lbs.) |
American American Chinchilla Beveren Blanc de Hotot Californian Champayne D’Argent Cinnamon Creme D’Argent English Lop New Zealand Palomino Satin Silver Fox | Checkered Giant Flemish Giant French Lop Giant Chinchilla |
The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) Standard of Perfection contains most all the breeds.
Source: 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System – BU-6069 What’s Hoppening?
Terms You Need to Know
4-Class--Jr. Buck/Doe and Sr. Buck/Doe = 4 classes
6-Class--Jr. Buck/Doe, Intermediate Buck/Doe and Sr. Buck/Doe = 6 classes
Broken--A rabbit that has any recognized breed color in combination with white and that carries the breed pattern
Class--Age at which the rabbit is shown: Junior, Intermediate, Senior
DQ (disqualification)--One or more deformities or blemishes that renders the rabbit ineligible for competition and/or registration. (DQs can correct themselves. For example, rabbits can be disqualified for a broken tooth, abscesses, under/over weight, ear/fur mites, etc.--all of which are conditions that the rabbit can move past.)
Faults--Imperfections within the breed or variety. A fault is a condition that's not serious enough for a DQ., such as long in type, flat, molting, etc.
Intermediate--A rabbit between six and eight months of age in the heavy weight breeds, known as 6-class animals
Junior--A rabbit under six months of age
Pedigree--A written record of a rabbit's lineage for three generations that contains the rabbit's birthday, variety, and ear number
Registration--The official recording of a rabbit and its pedigree that has been approved by a licensed registrar
Senior--A rabbit over six months of age for 4-class rabbits and over eight months of age for 6-class rabbits
Solid--A rabbit that basically carries the breed color throughout its entire body. This can include selfs, shaded selfs, ticked, wide banded, agouti, pointed whites, etc.
Variety--The color the rabbit is. For example, black, opal, broken, etc.
Source: rabbitweb.net
If you know any other terms you'd like us to post, make a comment and we'll post them for you.
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
Welcome to Rabbit 101
On this blog, you will find information about rabbits. Whether you are interested in showing rabbits, breeding them or just want to keep them as pets, we’ll provide information for you to make informed decisions.
Rabbits are a lot like humans, in that each has their own disposition, characteristics and temperament. It is unlikely that anyone could pick a breed and say, “These rabbits are always docile,” or “These are usually aggressive.” Temperament depends on the individual animal. If the kits (6-8 weeks old) are handled as much as possible so they are aware they are not in danger, they will become used to being handled and will most likely enjoy being held.
Rabbits are shy animals and scare easily. Sudden movements and loud noises may startle them, and if so, they may wrestle or try to get away and hide. While doing so, they may scratch or nip at you, nevertheless; such action comes out of fright – not aggressiveness. You should think about this if your rabbit will be around young children.
When considering which breed will be better for your situation, think about size. Smaller breeds (compact varieties), mature quicker, and can be bred sooner than medium or giant breeds. If you are beginning a breeding project, remember that smaller breeds need less pen space and less feed. Attend a rabbit show and view the different breeds, sizes and colors. Talk with breeders to decide which breed will be best for you.