Rabbit Management Tips

Cage

An all-wire cage for a 6-7 lb. rabbit should be at least 2 feet wide by 18 inches high by 2 feet long. You'll need a sitting board 6-8 inches square or larger to prevent sore hocks and feet.

Temperature

Outside cages need a shady roof and protection from rain, wind, drafts, dampness and direct sun during the hot summer months. To cool a rabbit, put a gallon jug of frozen water in the cage. Put long wet towels on the sides of the cage. Dampen the roof with cool water.

Cleaning/Sanitation

Remove all droppings from the cage every day. At least once a month, clean and disinfect the cage and tray. Use a mild bleach solution (1/4 cup bleach to 1 gallon water or 1 tablespoon bleach to 1 quart water). Rinse well.

Feed

Rabbits need a balanced diet to grow and reproduce. Feed them a commercially prepared 14%-16% protein rabbit pellets daily. The amount fed will vary with the age, weight and activity level of each animal. Five to six ounces will usually keep a mature New Zealand rabbit not in production in good condition. Small breeds need two to three ounces of pellets. Small amounts of fresh hay and grain may also be given. Feed a doe and her litter all they will eat each day. (Feed the doe only two to four ounces the first day after kindling to prevent caked udders.) Give weaned bunnies all they will eat.

Do not overfeed or let uneaten rabbit pellets stay in the dish day after day. Store the feed in a water/air tight container away from the sun and moisture so the pellets keep their nutritional value.

Check to see if a rabbit is being fed enough or too much by feeling the skin covering the ribs and back bone. If it's too thin, feed it more; if too fat, feed it less.

Water

Rabbits need plenty of fresh, clean ice-free water each day. Clean the crock or water bottle every few days with a mild bleach solution and warm soapy water. A doe and her litter will drink about a gallon of water a day.

Source: 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System - BU-6069 What's Hoppening?

Parts of a Rabbit

Belly - the lower part of the body, abdomen. From the bottom of the last rib to the pelvis. Contains the intestines.

Chest - the front part of the body between the forelegs and neck, the breast.

Cheeks - the sides of the face below the eyes.

Forehead - the front part of the head between the eyes and the base of the ears.

Hind (rear) leg - the foot, hock, stifle (knee) and hip joint.

Hindquarters - the rear part or section of the body; includes the loin, hips, hind legs and rump. From the last rib back.

Hip - the joint that attaches the hind legs to the trunk of the body.

Hock - the joint in rabbits that is like the ankle in man. The joint below the stifle.

Knee - the second joint of the hind leg - connects the thigh to the leg. Also known as the stifle.

Loin - that portion of the back on each side of the vertebrae from the last rib posterior to the hip joint.

Neck - connects the head to the body.

Nostrils - the two openings of the nose leading to the internal structures of the head.

Ribs - the curved portions of the sides immediately back and under the shoulders and above the belly.

Rump - the upper, rounded part of the hindquarters.

Shoulders - the upper joint of the foreleg, connecting it to the body.

Source: 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System - BU-6069 What's Hoppening?

Get a Hold on It

It is essential to know how to pick up and carry a rabbit. Rabbits can scratch or bite when they do not feel protected.

Use a stuffed rabbit to practice picking up a rabbit. When you are ready, show your parent how you do this with a live rabbit.

Removing from a Cage

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  Put the palm of your right hand under the middle of the belly and lift.


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  Take the rabbit out of the cage with the rear first and the head last.


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  When the rabbit is out of the cage, put your left hand around the rear legs.

Picking up a Rabbit

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  With the rabbit facing you, place your right hand under its chest and stomach.


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  Balance the rabbit on your right hand and lift it up a little.


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  Place your left hand under the rear of the rabbit until the rump is resting on your hand.


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  Move the rabbit forward until its head is securely tucked under your left arm.


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  Remove your right hand or gently lay your right hand on the back of the rabbit for added safety while moving.

NEVER lift or carry a rabbit by its ears or legs; you could injure it.

Source: 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System – BU-6069 What’s Hoppening?

Rabbit Breeds and Ideal Weight Groups

The 4-H Show in Delhi, Louisiana is for 4-Class ONLY (Jr. Buck/Doe and Sr. Buck/Doe)

4-Class Rabbit Breeds
Small (2 to 6 lbs.)	Medium (over 6 to 9 lbs.)
American Fuzzy Lop Britannia Petite Dutch Dwarf Hotot Florida White Havana Himalayan Holland Lop Jersey Wooly Mini Lop Mini Rex Netherland Dwarf Polish Silver Tan	American Sable Belgian Hare English Angora English Spot French Angora Harlequin Lilac Rex Rhinelander Satin Angora Silver Marten Standard Chinchilla
6-Class Rabbit Breeds
Large (over 9 to 11 lbs.)	Giant (over 11 lbs.)
American American Chinchilla Beveren Blanc de Hotot Californian Champayne D’Argent Cinnamon Creme D’Argent English Lop New Zealand Palomino Satin Silver Fox	Checkered Giant Flemish Giant French Lop Giant Chinchilla

The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) Standard of Perfection contains most all the breeds.

Source: 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System – BU-6069 What’s Hoppening?

Terms You Need to Know

4-Class--Jr. Buck/Doe and Sr. Buck/Doe = 4 classes

6-Class--Jr. Buck/Doe, Intermediate Buck/Doe and Sr. Buck/Doe = 6 classes

Broken--A rabbit that has any recognized breed color in combination with white and that carries the breed pattern

Class--Age at which the rabbit is shown: Junior, Intermediate, Senior

DQ (disqualification)--One or more deformities or blemishes that renders the rabbit ineligible for competition and/or registration. (DQs can correct themselves. For example, rabbits can be disqualified for a broken tooth, abscesses, under/over weight, ear/fur mites, etc.--all of which are conditions that the rabbit can move past.)

Faults--Imperfections within the breed or variety. A fault is a condition that's not serious enough for a DQ., such as long in type, flat, molting, etc.

Intermediate--A rabbit between six and eight months of age in the heavy weight breeds, known as 6-class animals

Junior--A rabbit under six months of age

Pedigree--A written record of a rabbit's lineage for three generations that contains the rabbit's birthday, variety, and ear number

Registration--The official recording of a rabbit and its pedigree that has been approved by a licensed registrar

Senior--A rabbit over six months of age for 4-class rabbits and over eight months of age for 6-class rabbits

Solid--A rabbit that basically carries the breed color throughout its entire body. This can include selfs, shaded selfs, ticked, wide banded, agouti, pointed whites, etc.

Variety--The color the rabbit is. For example, black, opal, broken, etc.

Source: rabbitweb.net

If you know any other terms you'd like us to post, make a comment and we'll post them for you.

Rabbit Housing

Rabbit Housing Manual

Welcome to Rabbit 101

On this blog, you will find information about rabbits. Whether you are interested in showing rabbits, breeding them or just want to keep them as pets, we’ll provide information for you to make informed decisions.

Rabbits are a lot like humans, in that each has their own disposition, characteristics and temperament. It is unlikely that anyone could pick a breed and say, “These rabbits are always docile,” or “These are usually aggressive.” Temperament depends on the individual animal. If the kits (6-8 weeks old) are handled as much as possible so they are aware they are not in danger, they will become used to being handled and will most likely enjoy being held.

Rabbits are shy animals and scare easily. Sudden movements and loud noises may startle them, and if so, they may wrestle or try to get away and hide. While doing so, they may scratch or nip at you, nevertheless; such action comes out of fright – not aggressiveness. You should think about this if your rabbit will be around young children.

When considering which breed will be better for your situation, think about size. Smaller breeds (compact varieties), mature quicker, and can be bred sooner than medium or giant breeds. If you are beginning a breeding project, remember that smaller breeds need less pen space and less feed. Attend a rabbit show and view the different breeds, sizes and colors. Talk with breeders to decide which breed will be best for you.